About: Capitals of the World

It is interesting to think how the world has changed throughout history. One of the most clear evidences of this is how the economical and political center of the world has shifted from country to country throughout the centuries. I don’t believe this list to be exhaustive (and hope some will help me out adding more cities to this list) but here is a list of where I believe has been some of the main “Capitals of the World” throughout history.

• Bagdad – Birth of Civilization
• Cairo – Pharaoh period
• Athens – Greek Classical Period/Alexander the Great
• Rome – Roman Empire
• Ankor Wat – Empire in South East Asia
• Xian – Genghis Khan / Ming Dynasty
• Samarkand – Timur (Tamerlane)
• Venice – 15th Century (Trade with India/Renaissance Period)
• Lisbon – 16th Century (Great Navigation Period)
• Madrid – 17th Century (Colonization of the American empire)
• Paris 18th Century (Napoleonic Period)
• London – 19th Century (Empire where sun never sets)
• New York – 20th Century (Capitalist capital of the world)
• Moscow – 20th Century (Communist capital of the world)
• Beijing – Probably 21st Century (current decline of the US and uprising of China)
• Rio de Janeiro – Beauty (Most beautiful city in the world)
• Sao Paulo – Future capital of the world

Rome – an amazing start

I’m not sure if one should start a trip through Italy by first visiting Rome. This is certainly an incredible city and the 4 days I’ve spent here certainly were not enough. I will definitely need to come here once more (and already made it clear to my host that that is the case and hope to have a place to stay once more when I return – just kidding!).

I only fear that this has created a huge expectation on me on the other places I’ll visit. Nevertheless, somehow, I’m sure that I will not be disappointed. There isn’t ONE single place in my travel that I’m not hugely looking forward in visiting. Below is a list of the places I expect to visit and if someone has any comments/advice on whether I should add/remove a place, please let me know!

• Rome
• Maratea
• Paestum
• Pompei, Herculaneum
• Ischia
• Napoli
• Capri
• Amalfi
• Sorrento
• Positano
• Orvieto
• Siena
• Chianti Valley
• Florence
• Venice

Very first impressions

As usual I almost lost the plane to Rome. Although I left my alphabet city apartment in Manhattan, NY at a reasonably comfortable time, the 30 min delay on the L line train definitely was not on my plans. Needless to say, I had to get a cab at Brooklyn Junction and from there rush to the airport. In the end all went well but what a way to start a trip!

In the plane, my first fright! My really first contact with the consequences of the swine flue: the Italian government expected all of us to fill out and hand in med form even before we had left the plane. I recon this is reasonable and the process actually ran smoothly. The immigration process and customs was even more impressive, the police did not even request any forms filled out and non-european travelers did not even have to hold some sort of paper whilst in the country! This is probably the most rational and efficient control but I guess I’m way to used to I-xxx forms and hence find this to be marvelous (as well as feeling more like a human being and not a rat).

Although not cheap (12 euros) the train ride from the airport to the city center (Estacione Termini -main train station) was a quick and smooth ride. From there, had to hop on the subway and within 2 stops was at my friend’s apartment. Although tired from the jet lag, lack of sleep on the plane and carrying my unnecessarily heavy backpack, I still wanted to get out an explore the city as quickly as possible.

My first view of the city was amazing… As I walked out of the metro station Coliseum, the first and incredible sight I had was just in front of me, approximately 50m away was the building itself that gives the name to the subway station. I honestly could not believe it. It took me a few seconds to actually digest the view. It is absolutely amazing and furthermore, all the other attractions next to it already would justify visiting a city but this is only one of the infinite attractions of this incredible city. It is astounding to think that some of these buildings have been standing for over 2000 years. Especially when considering that they’ve survived earthquakes, wars, vandalism, revolts (both social and religious) and obviously the erosion of time. How many wars and crimes have these monuments seen? And how many more will they cope in seeing before giving up and eroding back to earth?

I will surely not bore all with my uninteresting descriptions of all the amazing sites in this city, will only say that one should surely come here, should be in anybody’s top 5 list for sure! (Not sure still about living but definitely visiting).

Discovering the origins of my beloved State of Sao Paulo

Once more I set foot to another travel. Only difference is that this time to a more traditional destination. Actually it might come as a surprise to some of you that it’s the first time I set foot in this country (a half lie but in practical sense, true).

The State of Sao Paulo might not be the best singular example of a region that describes Brazil but it is without doubt the locomotive for the country (similar to California or New York city for the US). It represents approx. 34% of the total GDP of the country and concentrates the best universities, technology companies as well as the best transportation infrastructure in the country. A lot of this is a direct consequence of the diverse immigration the state received. Starting with the Portuguese (of course) but also many other immigrants made this their home state such as Spanish, Japanese, Lebanese, Germans, English (introducing football to the country), etc. But maybe the nation that brought the most immigrants to Sao Paulo during the late 19th century and first half of the 20th century was Italy. Actually, approximately 30% of citizens from Sao Paulo have an Italian heritage.

Many are the examples that immediately come to mind to expose how much this amazing culture influenced our state. Of course most were excellent influences such as the Italian cuisine which today many would argue has reached its excellence in Sao Paulo (the apprentice overcoming the teacher); the many Italian families that helped industrialize the state such as the Matarazzo family; and many other examples which I will not bore you all with.

Gilberto Freyre has already shown that to understand a population, its culture; mentality and its identity are key. An excellent manner of achieving this is to reach back to the roots of the people. I have longed desired to come to Italy but knew that the right moment would somehow appear. I have recently graduated from my MBA (Stern class of 2009). Besides the excellent education, lifelong friendships were built. In my case, some of them were with more than a handful of Italian friends. This was the final catalyst that caused me to be right now, sitting on a sofa in a friend’s apartment, drinking a Nastro Azzurro, eating some prosciutto and writing this post.

Set the sail and out to the sea

First of all sorry for the delay on another post but sometimes access to the Internet is not as easy as one might think. Besides, there are other things to do when travelling besides looking at a computer.

Next morning after a pleasant sleep with the mosquitoes at the wonderbar hostel we were all aboard the Renegade at 8am. A 52 feet boat with space for up to 10 people to sleep comfortably. Besides the three of us and our Spanish captain, the crew included another two Aussies and a French cyclist (who was cycling around the world for a total of 3 years. He had already completed a whole year by now). After a few safety instructions from Felipe (our captain) we left the bay. Unfortunately we had the wind against us and consequently we were sailing close haul at a speed which would not make us get in time to our destination. Consequently Felipe turned the motor on making our arrival time more predictable. The first day of sail was basically for us to reach San Blas. We sailed parallel to the coast the entire way and the day was beautiful. It was a truly enjoyable day at sea. Guine (the French cyclist) was determined to fish. He probably asked Felipe about it five times before Felipe actually did go down to get his fishing pole and equipment. Although Felipe did claim that there were many fish in the region, we weren´t quite sure of the truth about this fact. Nevertheless, I was hoping to eat some fresh fish.

With the sun almost leaving us, the boat already getting close to San Blas and no sign of any bites on the fishing rod. Suddenly, a noise coming from the rod. A bite! Our captain was already worried with the wheel (as we were approaching areas with shallow water). I then hurried to the rod and started bringing the fish in. It was not an easy fight and it surely did try to win. My energy and desire to eat that fish was what made me going and after a 10 min battle the first jump and the sign of victory. From then on it would just be a matter of not rushing in bringing it in. A mackerel weighing approx 3 – 4 kg. was the catch. Nevertheless, the fish was not the best part of the story. More entertaining was to see the French with all his masculinity hit the fish in the head to finish it off and save us from trying to catch the poor fellow while it jumped around the deck. Guine´s delicacy at first was amusing making all of us laugh at his efforts in trying to hit the fish but slowly he understood what the duty was all about and was successful. We left the dirty part of the process (cleaning the fish) to our captain to finish off.

Amazing, when we got to our first ilsands in San Blas. This is simply how I would describe it, hard to put words. I was simply struck by the beauty of the beaches/islands. It is certainly one of the most gorgeous places i´ve ever been to.

As soon as the boat had securely anchored I jumped into the water. The warm crystalline water is totally unforgettable. My first destination (swimming) was a boat with the Brazilian flag. I was really curious about the boat. It is not everyday that I find fellow countrymen travelling around the world. The captain, an older gentlemen from Maceio. He had just started (3 months ago) his 2nd trip round the world. The first one with his wife and 2 sons. This 2nd trip now with a crew documenting it. With great plans, besides doing a film out of it, the`´re also finalizing negotiations with a large Brazilian channel to make a series out of it. I guess this is the Brazilian way of cruising: getting someone else to pay for your travels. (His boat is full of sponsors which are a memory from his first trip). Hope I´ll be as successfull one day. This encounter reminded me of the pride I have of coming from Brazil. Although the people in this boat have never seen me before, the simple fact of I mentioning that I´m Brazilian to them was enough for recieving an invitation to step aboard. They were extremely friendly and during the little time I spent talking to them we managed to share extremely interesting travel stories.

Later I jumped back into the water to swim till one of the islands. My friends were all there and already planning a football match. Some local Kuna indians had a ball and we had a fun game till twilight. The Brazilian touch was fundamental for my team to score the winning goal. Dinner was delicious and happily celebrated both for the fresh fish we were eating as well as the fun and victorious football match.

Reaching our sailing port

6am we were up (almost all of us). The train would leave at 7am so we had to move fast. Of course the Italian businessman had to check his emails before the train left. Somehow, we did get to the train staiton 10 min before the scheduled time. The only problem: the train was not leaving. It was Saturday and during weekends the operator does maintenance of the railway lines and the rolling stock. We ended up getting a bus instead and reached Colon at approx. 10am.

From there we headed straight to Puerto Lindo (small bay area from where we would catch our boat). Another 2 hours later we arrived in our final destination. A small and EXTREMELY simple bar/restaurant was “waiting” for us and there we had some fresh chicken and fries for $1,75. As we were enjoying our food, almost set to order a second round of beers, the barwoman seemed to have guessed our thoughts and brought us our wish. No, it wasn´t the barwoman but yes a simple local fellow sitting at a neighbour table who did the kindness. Amazing how the more simple the people are, the more hospitable they are. Wherever I have traveled this seems to be the rule. And maybe, the reason why I´ve been travelling through so many underdeveloped areas of the world.

Although there was a tempting pool table at the bar (of course, have someone ever seen a village bar without a pool table?), it had been a long day so I returned to the hostel where we would spend the night and had a good night´s sleep (with all the mosquitoes).

We also met our captain this day who passed by the hostel to say hi. A really nice guy, serious and worried with safety. Let´s see how it goes at the sea.

Habana Vieja… Sorry, Casco Viejo

The traffic was terrible and I decided to jump off the bus before my stop and go walking. A 500m pedestrian walkway with low price product stores would lead me down to the old quarter of Panama city.

Just a small paragraph regarding the buses I sincerely don´t know what it reminded me the most the colourful buses from Pakistan or the truck “Camel” buses from Cuba. Anyway, it was sincerely a sign of lack of propriety. Old US school buses all decorated with colourful cartoons and images. The one I took once upon a time was driving children in some distant town in Virgina (US).

As I reached the old quarter, houses with paint peeling off, clothes drying from the terraces and most importantly the fallen walls and ceilings in a few buildings. This all reminded me of another Caribbean city Havanna. If someone had told me that I had been placed suddenly in Habanna Vieja, I would easily believe it. Again, like Havanna, very cosy, picturesque and colourful. Just missing the music, cigars and rum. On the other hand, this city has the view of all the cargo ships waiting to enter the canal and head towards the Atlantic ocean.

It is certainly not correct or polite to compare but the similarities were such that I had to bring it in. Already answering questions some might have, I need to say that Havanna does have some extra charm when compared to Panama City. First the plazas in Havanna are, in my opinion unbeatable. A beer in the plaza with the illuminated church on one of the ends, the guitarist playing some son and the cool breeze from the ocean is an unforgeatable Havanna experience which I could not find a match in Panama. Yes, Panama does have the canal (actually one of the drivers that made me come to this country) and the hat (which is actually manufactured in Ecuador) but Cuba has the Son, the “Puros”, the “Che”, the “Ron”, the “Old man and the sea”, …. and I could continue. If Panama is going to seriously focus its economic efforts in tourism, have it as a generator of growth for the country, I strongly suggest they create something new.

Lunch at an excellent chilled restaurant in Casco ViejoÑ Casa Blanca. Even Brazilian music was playing (Gracas a Deus!!! Chega um pouquinho de chu chu chu e cha cha cha). Two upper class girls talked a mixture of English and Spanish behind me. It´s probably the fashionable way of talking. Might show to themselves that both are fluent in both languages

After lunch still found some energy to leave Casco Viejo and head to the ruins in Panama Viejo. Finding a taxi that would get me there at 5pm was not an easy task and buses heading that direction would only leave every 2 hours. Eventually, I did manage to find a taxi not before being warned a couple of times about how dangerous it was for a foreigner to be downtown at that time of day. Interesting that this was only a couple of blocks away from the touristic sites. Nevertheless, I had to agree with the locals as I wasn´t feeling entirely safe. Just out of curiosity, the taxi I did successfully catch took me down to the ruins, waited for me (about 1-2 hour) and drove me back to my guest house for 8usd.

Although controversy, I really enjoyed walking around the ruins. Apparently, from what I have read, the ruins have been severely damaged already. Still I thought the ruins were in great state of conservation and felt that it was possible to visualize the old city quite well. The local government did an excellent job in restoring and maintaining this part of their past. Although it is impossible not to note the neighbourhood surrounding the ruins. Surrounded by shantytowns, the site does not reflect the tranquility and loneliness so typical of city ruins. Hopefully the government will continue the current work of restoring the site and slowly remove this unwanted neighbour to such a great tourist attraction for the city.

I later went back to the hostel as I had arranged to meet the two. They had remained in Boca to enjoy some more snorkeling and beaches. The great thing of travelling with good friends is that you always have a good company. But, if each person wants to do a different activity, the group needs to be open about it and understand whatever each person wants. I guess that we really did excel in that.

We were all exhausted (I had to wake up early for my flight while they had the boat trip) but we still managed to go out for dinner. After having a great dinner in Casco Viejo, we went to La Casona, a reasonably underground bar close to where we had dinner. Unfortunately the place hadn´t picked up yet and the music was not what we were seeking so we headed to Calle Uruguay. A mainstream street with several clubs. Interesting to see but our bodies weren´t coping. The fact that we had to leave early next morning also was not an incentive to stay. All added up, shortly after getting to the street we were already in another taxi heading to the guest house.

PS: I try to “advertise” on Facebook whenever I write a new post. If someone wants me to email them , please let me know. I will also ask the other two to write something here shortly… lets see their comments on my impressions of the trip so far.

Bocas del Toro

After crossing the border (and I should add, A very basic and simple migration post), we were set with a dilema: Either taking an easy way to Bocas del Toro (and obviously paying the premium) or risking doing it solo. Given the time constrain, we took the easy way. Oh, just a curiosity about the border: all international citizens were allowed to cross the border without any trouble, that is, almost all: citizens from the US and Canada had to pay a fee to do so… makes you think about the love between Panama and the US (maybe the almost 100 years of exploitation of the Panama cannal explains it).

After the comfortable minivan which took us to a river port, a speedboat was necessary to reach Bocas as it is a group of islands which is not connected to the continent neither by bridge or ferry. The trip was quite entertaining as we went past some very typical mangrove vegetation.

As usual once we got to the island, the two went out to search for a hostel whilist I waited at a bar with all the bags. Fortunately this time I was lucky and the final of the Champions League (Manchester United vs. Chelsea) was being showed. Incredible the difference in speed between a Prime European club and current South American football.

The difference between Bocas and Puerto Viejo is stricking. I could never imagine a disparity so large. Although they are certainly both very laidback, the organization and infrastructure of Bocas is uncomparable. It could be simply my own impression and all others might disagree with me but I believe that`s the reason for me to be writting this travel diary. It is also important to note that I did actually spend only two nights in each place but then again, isn`t the first impression that counts?

The hostels, hotels, bars restaurants simply looked better in Bocas. Besides, I also found the beaches to be nicer. Not to mention the local population. While in Puerto Viejo every so often we were approached by someone trying to sell us drugs, in Bocas, the police would not allow us to drink in the streets.

Our first night in Bocas we went to a very cool place called Aqua Lounge. Situated in a very close island to the main town. The place has a huge deck built in such a way that there`s a swimming pool in the middle. The night started slowly but it certainly did pick up and by the end there were even people jumping into the pool. Fortunately (or unfortunately) none of us had our swimming gear on and so we decided to be calmer.

Next morning we went another island. Supposedly some of the nicest beaches in the arquipelago. While my two loyal friends decided to get an extended bout trip straight to the beaches, I decided to venture myself thorugh a trail. The two didn´t feel that comfortable with the mud and mosquitos. I really enjoy these trails and thought it would be a great experience. It certainly was but most important how happy was I that they didn´t come. I could only imagine the falling… The funny was to learn later that Vito was actually worried with me! It is probably the latin blood. The german coolness simply said: “What, do you think that I´m going to get worried with someone who was I don´t know where 1 year ago, I´m sure you would have survived that trail, didn´t even go past my mind.” In the wnd, when I arrived, my dear, worried, Italian didn´t even believe on my speed.

True, the beaches were REALLY nice but they did lack a bit of infrastrucutre (also known as bar). By 4pm we were already really burnt and hungry so headed back into town. A quick note on the town which was really clean and cosy. Except for the corner of the supermarket which apparently didnt clean its garbage.

That Thursday was not a memorable one for me given some sports activity going on on the TV and hence will refrain from writting more.

Next morning I got the early plane to Panama City. My two friends remained in Bocas for another day to further explore the island but I was really interested in visitng the old city of Panama and its small details.

Puerto Viejo

Our first priority in the morning in Puerto Viejo was to rent bikes. We planned to go cycling to the outer most beaches of the region where they were supposedly the most beautiful. Of course, breakfast and some personal matters had to be taken care off (such as writing posts into my blog!) As was proven to be the common scenario, our Italian businessman even in remote Costa Rica had to do important deals over the net so me and Andreas went out to do other things so to speed things up.

In the end, yes, Vito did disappear but given that we all wished to go to the same beach, Andreas and I simply set forth and followed our prearranged destination. I´m not sure how clever we are but certainly cycling some old bikes for 20km at midday was not a proof of our brightness! On the other hand, we did see one of the most funny or amazing sights of the entire trip: a Sloth crossing the road! With its ultra fast speed, it was almost comical to follow it. Nevertheless, we remained there close to the animal in order to warn any cars coming by. It certainly did take over 10min for the dear animal to finish its task (and looking back, it was actually a good rest for us as well).

When we actually reached the beach, I think we were well compensated for our efforts. Gorgeous place. Nevertheless, yes, we were stupid enough to start playing football 10min after we arrived. We found another 3 guys hanging around in the beach and managed to play for approx. 1/2 an hour. Later in the day, I found a nice restaurant which served besides cold beer, a great tuna. It was a bit on the expensive side but I guess we did deserve a little treat after such a hard work. Oh, just forgot to mention: yes, Vito was there at the beach already.

And, talking about stupid things, we decided to stay at the beach till the sunset and come ridding via the beach. As some might already know, this is not the first time I cycle on the sand nearing sunset and with the tide coming. I do not need to say how this ended… Actually this time I was a bit more lucky (or might I say experienced). When we saw that it was not possible anymore, we luckily found an exit to the road. I must add that it was a gorgeous cycle and the photos will prove me right (hope to get them posted soon). Following the numerous stupid acts, we had to cycle on a complete dark road with no headlamps, to be sure that we were following each other, we would talk the whole way as it was sincerely impossible to see 1 meter ahead. Thankfully all ended well (the good thing is that whomever is reading this knows that in the end all ended well or otherwise I wouldn´t be able to write it. N´est pas?

Happily home, we did some pasta and following went to enjoy a second night of reggae in the village. I must say that the ambiance was`n´t great (not that there weren´t nice people around) but somehow there was a bad energy to the place.

Besides that, in Puerto Viejo I noted something that I had already seen once. Something that shocked me a lot in Cuba (especially Santiago de Cuba) was a unapparent sex tourism. Interesting to note how there were much more female tourist than male tourist and most of them (if not all) dancing with local guys. Some might call this envy but the pattern was typical, very similar to Santiago. How the local guys (always with the dreads and “Jamaican English”) talking to these almost naive girls. How they would say they´re in love with them, etc etc etc. Interesting also to observe how there weren´t that many local girls around. Maybe they´re taking care of the sons of these guys? who knows? What I do know, after talking with a couple of local guys (not these “Jamaican playboys” but some local merchants and girls) is that most of these guys in the end get to visit their newly acquianted “girlfriends” back in Europe or the US. I found it strange as a plane ticket and being a tourist in these countries is somewhat expensive. But this was easily explained: they would be sponsored. At least one good news in Costa Rica was that I heard no stories of passports, money, clothes disappearing. As I many times heard in Cuba: “But my boyfriend and all my clothes disappeared during the night! I´m worried, someone must have kidnapped him.”
The first question a police officer would ask: “For how long have you known your boyfriend?”
Answer: “oh, only two days, I met him in Santiago de Cuba. But he did say he loved me!”

I have friends to prove that I am not lying as I was not the single evidence to speeches like this in Havanna. Just hope that it has ceased (this was over 6 years ago).

I just feel it is sad to think that these girls travel so many kilometers to entertain themselves in this manner. Maybe because here no one knows them? Here, it is allowed? There´s no discrimination and/or it is a way of exploring things that in their closed society people would not look up at? I really don´t know. On the other hand, I must admit that it is not only a sin of the females. How many men go down to Brazil exploring teenage sex? what about Thailand? All in all, this is extremely sad.

Anyway, back to my story as I rather write about the good things in life rather than portray the sadness. After another night out where our dear friend received the nickname of: German Sloth. Yes, some might be surprised and he claimed it was a consequence of the ambiance of the night that: “wasn´t inspiring him”.

Next morning, as usual, we woke up early to get a bus to cross the border into Panama. There, our first destination would be Bocas del Toro.

First night in Puerto Viejo

Reaching Porto Viejo we set for a hostel search the way I like to do it, by splitting jobs. While some go in search of the hostel, others stay watching the bags. This always results in more efficient search. We decided to leave myself with the bags in a bar but not before the three of us getting a cold beer to relax. What was our surprise (or maybe not) when we found out that the bar was run by Italians. We placed our local expertise into action in order to enquire where would be the best place in town to stay. Again, not surprisingly, we ended up in a cool and clean hostel run by guess who… Italians.

After settling down we headed out for some food. It was already past 10pm and it was actually hard to find some place to get some food but a really hospitable Englishman reopened the kitchen of his restaurant to our delight. The curry reminded my two friends of what they`ll be eating for the next 10 weeks after we return from this trip whilst I`ll be eating clam chowder with Samuel Adams.

After dinner we headed out to seek for some drinks. The only place where some movement was to be observed was a local bar where a pool tournament was being played. A slight unintentional touch on one of the players just as he was going to hit the ball made the mood and sympathy of others towards us in the bar change drastically. In order to not loose our composure and remain cool, we did not leave immediately and therefore had to hear a few unfriendly words from the poor fat local. He had lost some dollars in the game and obviously claimed it was our fault. The few non local people present mentioned to us about another bar where people might be more friendly and we followed them. The reggae bar was chilled and in a beautiful location facing the ocean. It is just unfortunate that they repeatedly insist in playing JUST reggae. But then again I am in the Caribbean and should expect that. It is not that I don´t like the music but just find it excessively repetitive.